THE northern-most wine region of Italy, known as Trentino-Alto Adige, is like no other in that country.
An incredibly diverse mixture of climates, soil structures and grape varieties, it is a mixture of the northern Alto Adige region which is cool and mountainous and specialises in mainly single variety wines from the bench grapes of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot bianco, gewurztraminer and riesling.
Strongly Austrian in character, this region used to be part of Austria and German is still spoken freely.
The more southern Trentino region is warmer and less alpine in its character but still produces mainly single variety wines.
Whites are mainly chardonnay, pinot grigio and pinot bianco and there are good reds as well, with cabernet sauvignon and franc, merlot and some interesting indigenous varieties including marzemino, lagrein and teroldego.
The vine is grown everywhere in Italy and regions such as Trentino Alto Adige have a strong wine culture.
It is therefore not surprising that Italian immigrants coming to Australia from regions such as Italy's northeast should have a strong wine culture and love for the vinous product.
Emo Michelini is such a person.

Immigrating from Italy in 1949 at the age of 25 from Trentino Alto Adige, where his family had been growing grapes and making wine since 1851, Emo and his wife, Olga, planted their first grapes in the Buckland Valley beneath the towering Mt Buffalo.

"The Michelini family is keen to reflect its Italian heritage in its wine range and the strategy is a sensible one, given the interesting array of varieties and the quality of the winemaking."

A lot of time and expense was incurred at this time to research the problem but the Michelini's made the tough decision not to sell the wine as Michelini-branded product.

Since that time, vintages have come and gone with excellent conditions and resultant wines.
This time has also provided an opportunity to reflect on the past and re-establish themselves as quality producers in the Alpine Valleys.
The family has decided to focus on the traditional varieties of the Trentino Alto Adige region of Italy, those of Emo's heritage, and the first release of those wines has recently occurred.

With encouragement from Orlando Wines, 20ha were planted for sparkling wine production in 1982, mainly with chardonnay and pinot noir.
A further 20ha were planted in 1991 including merlot and some Italian varieties.
Small additions to the vineyard makeup are being made as existing plantings and likely future needs are being assessed.
The Michelini family is keen to reflect its Italian heritage in its wine range and the strategy is a sensible one, given the interesting array of varieties and the quality of the winemaking facilities at their disposal.
Emo, with his two sons Ilario and Dino, built a state-of-the-art winery in time for the 1997 vintage which has allowed them to process the fruit off their own vineyards as well as others nearby much quicker than in the past.
Winemaker Greg O'Keefe, who has broad winemaking experience, is in charge of the winery.
Greg's time at Michelini's has not been without its challenges, with the 2003 bushfires rendering most of the Michelini wines from that vintage unsaleable.

The unwooded chardonnay from Michelini has always been a good wine. The 2004 is clean and fresh with some alcohol texture on the palate.
The 2005, however, is more aromatic, crisp and off-dry - lots of attractive fruit which I thought rather riesling-like.
The other classy white is the 2004 pinot grigio which I have reviewed separately.
The reds are a mixture of orthodox and ultra-obscure.
The 2004 merlot is elegant with ripe plummy fruit and fine dry tannins - a most enjoyable wine.
The 2004 barbera shows cherry savoury fruit flavours, is crisp and dry - an ideal lunch-time wine.
And the 2004 sangiovese is very good - elegant, rustic, savoury and food friendly.
Then there is the lesser known pair of marzemino and teroldego.
Marzemino is typically almondlike and plummy and this example is also quite crisp and savoury.
Teroldego has a good reputation for quality. It is low in tannin, has a dense colour concentration and typically a spicy fruitiness on the palate.
The Michelin range is really starting to develop into a range with something for everyone.
There are elegant fruity wines for aperitif use or food-matching and there is always something to test the aficionados.
They have overcome the fury of nature with a new range of freshly-packaged wines which is full of interest and elegance.
The Michelini renaissance has started.